Gavin Symonds

Pip

2011-12-20T07:36:00.001-08:00

Well I new turn of events has come around, in the shape of a pip a 12 week old cocker spaniel she's been her a few days now and settling in nicely.

On the way home

The road

2011-12-20T04:01:00.001-08:00

Well I must say these last few months have been on the hectic side of things starting off with a dash around the uk putting up christmas decorations all over the place, if you were to plot my corse on a map you'd have a big blob around London with lines going in and out of hear going all over the country, from Manchester, Cardiff and Southampton and many inbetwen.

But on this mad maze of lines you'd see a little long line heading south across the channel through France and ending its journey in northern Spain.For hears where Lisa and me were to spend the next week chilling out and climbing, we met up with Gaz and Kate for a few days climbing before we headed to Santa Linya and the massive cave. With a cuppa at Tom and lyn's we set off down the highway to the crag.

Now as iv not done much climbing outside this year and certainly not much stamina climbing I thought of not pushing the boat out to much and just see of I could get an " easy " route in the bag, at this crag a crag of 9's a easy route comes in at around 8a so I found myself on airline. I'v done the first half before a very nice 7b+ so I went up this to warm up then went bolt to bolt working the moves on the higher part of the route. Well fitness is the key word hear and a 30M route meant I had no margin of error it had to be perfect or it's the soft catch for me, needless to say as is my stile I'd need another day as I rushed the second crux and my foot popped of a smear. But the second day was all that was needed as I sent the line on my second day.With a few days of climbing left I had a little play on a few 8a+s just to make a project list for the fitter future to come I am so motivated to get fit for this year, I can feel good things coming !

So now I had to work so a little hop down to Madrid to build a bouldering wall, I'll not say much about this as I'll just boar you with the details but I think it is going to be a fantastic venue when all the finishing touches are done.I can't say it was a work and no play, we might of had a few days out climbing and our hosts showed us around from granite slabs, granite bouldering and sport climbing on the lime we had a nice little time all told we might of got a few laps of karting on as well.

With the wall done and thoughts of home we headed north to vist Jon Wad in the basq for my first taste of the climbing there, and I wasn't disappointed as Jon took us to a secret crag around the back of a massive hill not a good walkin but the climbing is the best a massive cave with 100m lines possible and steep.Again I headed to the shorter parts and with a warmup of 7c ( the easiest line at the crag) we had a play on a 8a+ cave route on the first day followed but a less steep but longer 8a on the second witch Andy and myself managed to send Just.

The lion sleeps tonight

2011-10-24T05:08:00.001-07:00

Well after climbing shadow walker the next logical step was to then try Dave Pickfords new link out of the top of shadow the lion sleeps, so inlisting the help of pete for belay and photo duties we set off back down to the ched.
with perfect conditions and after a coffee I set off up the line warming up on the lower half getting the draws in this then followed by a play on the new moves of the link, this entails from the undercuts of shadow a shuffle right past some small undercuts and crimps to the arate where some nifty heal hooking and hand flicking sees you topping out back at the lower off of shadow. The moves worked and where to clip from sorted I lowered back down for a little rest before going for the point.

The upper arête heal flick move

Feeling good I pulled the rope and set off, with not to much fuss I found myself under the last slab of shadow on the undercuts feeling happy not to be going up on the small crimps and sidepulls but right instead over to the arête and the fun climbing there on.
So that brings us to the grade and I think from that feeling I had on the headwall it's for me easier than shadow but not much putting it in the hard 8a or easy 8a+ or as the Spanish like to put it 8a/8a+ gota love the slash grade?

- Posted from someplace I'm sure

Black shadow

2011-10-08T02:17:00.001-07:00

Not a bad month for a what I thought was an unfit fat man wile not getting out climbing much as iv been working quite a bit this summer, but when I have got out those days have been quite good.

To pick a couple of those such days the first one taking me down to blackers hole in Dorset and looking up at the very steep infinite gravity a 45 meter very steep 8a+ first done by pete Oxley, this is a route that iv wanted to climb for a few years now and the last time I was on it was two summers ago for a day of playing around but not going for the send as the bottom crux was nice and wet.
So on the return I pulled on with new numbers for the start move making it much nicer so I set off working the line, it started ok moving from bolt to bolt breaking the line down, this was working nicely but the links were getting smaller and the rests bigger not a good sign, I'd forgotten just how steep and long this thing is, anyway after the half way point totally pumped my mission for the day was just to get to the top on the dog, red pointing quicky vanishing from my head!

So recovered from my shocking working sesh an hour later I thought I'd pull on and see first if I could do the start and if I did just how far I could get. With the start done and in the first rest I was having hopeful thoughts but no way I'd get past the steep roof in the middle into the next rest.
In the next rest still not believing I'd got this far I only had the top third of the route to climb it's only about 7b from here but a hard move off a pinch in the middle of that bit and a sandy rail to finish was what I was up against, under the rail quite pumped and in fear of failing this far up the route the
sprint was on, so off I set with what I must say is my best scrabble of all time finding myself with both knees on, the last three draws missed and the finishing jug in front of me just i needed to get a hand to it !
Some how I did and clipping the chains has never felt a nicer.

Fast forwards a few weeks and another few days off cheddar was on the cards and the very cool looking line of shadow walker on lion rock a very thin and technical 8a+ first done by Mat Cox.
So to cut a long story short I spent four days on this line with the first two with a wet hold just before the crux. The next day was a silly day of trying the moves in full sun on the hottest October day on record, but saying that all but one move got done and the tan came on a treat.
That was Monday and on Thursday approaching in the rain and wind with thermals on I got to thinking how things change ! But in the cold the move I was unable to do in the sun I did first try on my warm up so with little fuss I got the draws in did a few moves to recute the fingers then bang the route was done , but on coming down stripping the draws I got to looking right and my next line to play on the game gos on.

Deep water Norway

2011-09-13T13:19:00.001-07:00

Well as always I'm rubbish at this blogging stuff as iv not done anything in it for an age sorry about not much I can say really but stick with me and I'll see if I can improve!
First off is Norway and a little bit of deep water solo in the form of a comp the first comp of this type on the ifsc Callander.
The comp was held on a porpoise built wall over a harbour in a town called arundall in the south of Norway, the wall standing at 12 meters looked good and was a dream to climb on, a little steeper would of been nice but still good.

With steve Mac, Aid Baxter, Ben Heason and me Team uk did fairly well coming in the results in 5/6/9/11 with steve aid me then ben.
This was a great event and with a few extras I can't wait till next year.

May/June

2011-06-15T06:23:00.000-07:00

Well since china it's been a mad dash of work and a little play, the play involving a bit of Font, Portland and Cheddar.

So Font the boulders mecca, that is as maybe but in the sun with temps touching 30 friction is far from Bon, that said a good trip was had meeting up with loads of friends not seen for an age!
After a slow start with Lisa and me both thinking it way to crowded we found ourselves at isatis with Lisa making good progress on a steep line not her style at all but making it look good, I had a sneaky peek at a problem I had a look at a few years back. finding fellow sportiva athlete Barnaby under the line we set to making moves higher and higher until feeling brave i did the flick from under the roof to a sloper and then on to the top jug happy days, closely followed by Barns.

Cheddar's been a game of two half's as in most times I have been it's been on the back of not sleeping the first time was jet lagged from china, and all tho did all the moves on a route called homegrown (8a+) I just kept on making silly mistakes so had to leave with no skin and nothing more to show for a days climbing. So the next time in the ched was a little disappointing when after warming up I sent the line with the minimum of fuss! Next up was Bristol weed of the same grade and lo and behold the same result working all night heading to the crag and walking away with shoulders hung low only to return a few days later and bang she's in the bag.

Iv been feeling the pull of the sea for an age now and last weekend I made a start to the season of DWS ( the latest start for me in years ) so with a dash to Pembroke I had a quick look at Neal G's new line from last year an 8a down in lydstep. It was a grey and windy day and after a few splashdowns and the tide going out I had to call it a day with a sequence that I think will work and and a smile on my face that it will go and iv taken my first splashdown of the year sweet, can't wait till I can make it down there again to get back in the sea.

On top of this iv been working loads building Walls north and south, a bit of visual bliss party prettification and setting at climbing Walls around the uk. I am at the moment sat in the work van driving back from Durham a drive iv done twice in the last week and a half !
But on the good side iv got a weekend off in Cornwall to chill out party and have a good time with friends, it don't get better than that.

China

2011-05-09T04:33:00.001-07:00

Well on arriving at Getu river southwest china two days of travel in the bag, Bristol-London then flight one heathrow - Beijing 10 hours then three or so hours to change plane followed by a three hour flight to Guiyang then a taxi to hotel in the city. Day two picked up by a driver then a 7 hour drive into the middle of know where, that just so happens to be not only beautiful but also where the arch of winners is!
So on arriving Erwan our host from Petzl thinks the best thing to do is go look at the crag this involves a little walk, a river crossing helping the motorbikes on and off the small boat then a small set of steps (1477 steps)up into the cave. And what a cave well more of a arch than cave 100 M across 300 M long and 80M high at it's lowest point! With a head wall and wings covered in tufa.

So the brief, with a supply of two thousand bolts, a team of climbers from all over the world manly france Spain and England, bolt as many routes as you can. Right then mission on.
With accomidtion sorted and the food menu worked out I.e two weeks of rice and noodles with spice and random stuff put in to make it yummy, we set to

to get our eyes in we had a climbing day ( a few routes were put up in October ) to see what we were up against, in the arch it was a stiff learning curve as the routes were totally nails and so hard to onsight as the rock is smooth and all looks the same! But a few new lines stood out to andy and me some easier routes just out side the main cave so we set to bolting five lines over the next few days most in the mid 6 grade.

with this done we went for a wonder to have a look at the rest of the valley finding with two of the French boys a nice crag that ended up being called fish crag because there is a painting of a fish at the bottom of the cliff!
As we could get round the tp of this cliff be a little track in the il side things moved along a little swifter as we could bolt top down instead of bottom up, much faster.
Between the four of us we then had the crag set on four or so days with 15 routes from 6c to 8a not bad I thought.
after this the weather tok a turn for the worse and tho not proper rain we had a fine drizzle so Andy and I hung up our drill did a little climbing and ran for Beijing to be tourist's for a day or so.
meanwhile the rest of the team were going big in the cave with dani bol
Ting an 8 pitch monster thru the middle that will be in the mid to high 8s to climb Toni putting a five pitch route at 7c+ on the left and deago bolting the crag classic a five pitch 7b on the right.
Also many new routes put up in and out of the cave leaving the valley with about 250 new pitches from 5 to 9 not a bad job boys good work !

Comps and Walls

2011-03-17T16:39:00.001-07:00

Comps and climbing, well the indoor season for me is very nearly at an end, it's been a bizy few weeks starting with the final round of the climbing academy, well not getting off to a good start falling off an easy problem spent the rest of the of the sesh playing catch up! Well with a good try I missed out on the final by two points but came second overall for the league. One down two to go the next being at the cloning works Sheffield for there yearly comp the CWIF and with an international field was thinking a tough tour and low points was to be my day but low and behold I did quite well climbing the tecky routes with a little bit of stile.
So from a field of 200 men I came 24th not bad, I'm well happy with that!

Well now to the north and a fun week building a small climbing wall in a leisure centre, wit a strong team a big bag of tools and Longy at the helm I think we did it again and made a beautiful thing.

Jan / Feb

2011-02-16T08:13:00.000-08:00

tools of the trade

Well it's time to go back to school, when I say school I mean that if you think not climbing routes for four months over the winter then rocking up to one of the biggest caves in Spain with only a few weeks training and expecting to do anything it's lesson one O one.
But first let's go back a week and a bit and talk of Font, a quick weekend trip with some of the Bristol crew. Leaving on Friday eve and headed to the tunnel, iv not had the pleasure of the tunnel before and what a joy 30 mins of standing around and bingo France, So from hear we drove on to the formula one just outside font getting there late and wedging five into a three person room!
The one thing about going with others is they tend to be a lot more on it that me, like for me the day hasn't started in font till at least a coffee and cake has been had In a nice French cafe. Still a gas station coffee and to the climbing, I think on that note all I can say was it was cold and I flapped around like a punter thinking I need to be in the Spanish sun doing routes and getting pumped out of my mind.

the cave, santa Linya

So on to the afor mentioned Spanish sun and the cave! Santa linya, on touching the ground after warming up doing pitch one of airline with said pump I was struck by the thought that fuck that hurts the arms and I might of lost a bit of fitness over the winter so on sighting might be the order of the day on the short but steep routes of the cave can't be that hard steep = jugs surly, so off I went scrabbling my way up 7b+s wile all around others were trying 8c's and that was just the girls!
So day one over and a hand-full of sevens I got to thinking I might be better off just bolt to bolting things working them for redpointing from hear on in and so in this method a few 8's went nicely in the pocket as well.
Day five! And with the rain not coming on day four as forcast that turned into a climbing day instead of rest I was feeling a bit under gunned and in that manner hit the wall of can't pull any more at this grade falling from the last hard move on a 8a+ so after one go I had the rest of the day off thinking day six (my last day in Spain) was going to be a book reading chill day!
Well with Alex having a go on his proj I found myself back in the cave on belay mission but as I s always the way with these things I thought I might have a bit left and lo and behold I did on sighting a 7b,a 7c and the hardest of the day sharmers warm up 7b+ second go but to my defence it's nails hard to read and was wet and everybody comes of the route!
So now on the way home sat on the plane drinking coffee and thinking where next?

readpointing irac attack 8a+

bbs's

2011-01-25T11:48:00.000-08:00

to calll it training would be overstating it some what i think, I think to call it training i think you have to have some structure planning and goals, i had one of these a goal the BBC's in London town The british bouldering championship is where the top British boulders go to have at a hard set of blocks.
so back to my goal witch was to come in the results at about mid field so with 52 competing coming around the 25th place is where i was aiming, so after climbing witch i was very happy with the way i was climbing relaxed and feeling strong i came 20th iv got to be happy with that.
so now what ? well iv just entered the CWIF in Sheffield so theres another goal to aim for just need to get round to doing the other two bits structure and planning, till i get round to that (iv never managed it yet) i think ill go have a play at the wall, knowing me ill drink coffee and talk moe than climb but if im in the right place i might get strong by watching others!

2011 jan

2011-01-07T03:46:00.000-08:00

well hear she is A new year , What shall she bring, hopefully a good summer to Finnish off my projects the main one being climbing all the deep water 8's in the uk so come on people step up get some new lines done to make my life harder go on i challenge you.
but that Will be in the summer its a bit cold the now for getting in the sea! till then bouldering and sport will have to to but i get ahead of myself work needs to be done evan before that so im off now to take some lights and borbbles down the last remains of 2010 and the year gone by, It was a good one.

Back in the saddle

2010-10-12T07:58:00.001-07:00

Well after three weeks in rodellar it was time to head home, with arms failing to do there stuff we decided to give ourselves an extra day to drive home. Ending the trip after 52 days away not a bad way to spend the summer.
The only problem with this is now I'm balls deep in Christmas decorations putting them up for he next month all around the country from Southampton to Glasgow.

I did manage tho to get a few hours off to go to the opening round of the Climbing Academy's first round for there winter boulder league, tho to manage this I did have to drive on Friday to peterbourgh work most of the night get up early then drive back to Bristol to start climbing at 12!

It was at this point that I found out that wile I'm quite fit and can pull V5 moves after 30 meters of climbing this is my limit and can only do V5 off the deck as well I think some boulder training is in need!!

Shoes

2010-09-22T03:33:00.000-07:00

I think iv spoken of this before at some time in this blog! But I must rave and rant about the c limbing shoe that is the speedster from sportiva, when I first got a hold of this shoe I had a quick play and thought that this is a shoe that has a narrow field of play ie steep.
Well hear I am in the land of the steep and tufa Rodellar and I must say. That I was bob on with my summery the way the speedster makes you use your feet difrantly with the funky Rand turns your feet into little claws you push pull and hook your way up climbs with them I can only offer as everdence of this in my climbing of resant times, looking back though my 8a.nu score card all my hardest climbs have been done in the speedster, from red pointing 8b to on sighting 8a's the speedster has come up trumps.

last legg

2010-09-14T04:34:00.000-07:00

well hear we are on the last leg of the trip Rodellar,
after looking at a crag on the way hear the boys and girls thought fuck it might just as well get on it at up and come to the crag of crags. we got hear in the dark so armed witha torch we went to find a spot in the campsite then got our heads down for the night.
so an lazy morn and a few coffees we headed you the valley the only thing on mikes and mine mind was getting back on les chacals an 8b i looked at last year but went away with the route unclimbed so i went up to get the draws in and i was in for a shock it was so much harder than remember there's no way i can get up this!
so as a look i went for a point and as i expected came up short, falling off the mid crux so working it more i then headed to the top.
mike was in the same place as me with the crux stopping him as well so after a rest and waiting for the sun to go behind the hill i pulled back on, by some luck of some sort i got though the crux into the first rest this might be game on last year iwas falling just one move short of a jug can i make it this time. well the rest is history i got to the move and i said to myself don't PANIC slow down and do it right and the jug was in my grasp get in a few more moves and glory and a big jump off from the chains.

Tres ponts

2010-09-11T03:53:00.000-07:00

Tres ponts been hear just over a week, I just so love this crag short walk in and a nice relaxing feel always a few folk around to watch climb and get the numbers on the harder routes also saw daila send the crag 8b in fine stile it looked like she was just warming up the girl can crush, for me tho some on sighting in the 7 grade and pointing the 8's one of witch An 8a that took me three days to point I later found out that a hold has broken and in the new topo it now gets 8a+ so feel a bit better about it taking so long to send.
From hear With mike and T dog coming down from france and mike showing me the way I stepped up the game with flashing another 8a mite modens, getting the next one second point Rauxa, and first redpoint of a 8a+ Carbassa pel tap de bassa

Spain

2010-08-26T06:40:00.000-07:00

Home at last, well when I say home I mean Spain. Lisa and me after dropping Ed off at the airport drove down yesterday and now we are at Montgrony and sat at the restaurant after a nice morning's climbing where Lisa found a project for her to ork and send.
Since the last time I checked in we first went to bus les baronies and climbed around there after a morning taking a wonder around the local morning market, at baume Rousse I warmed up and then got the draws in a route I had seen last time I was down this way, the route Les Secrets de Regine 8a felt ok with a hard move at the start and finish went ok on the third point after falling from the top move on the second burn.

From hear after Steve sent his second ever 8a on his fourth point a sterling effort, we headed to St Leger where after a a few days of sweating and saying it far to hot so many times I lost count ( iv never sweated from inside my ear before) we have as I said come to spain.

Week one

2010-08-17T02:14:00.000-07:00

With a nice but quite long drive down thru France we arrived at Ceuse, with camp set and a few beers looking at the crag from the safety of the campsite we got t planning the climbing the following day.
Walking up the hill the next day in the full sun was quite fun but ok at a slow pace, climbing on the other hand although the best ever was quite hard work falling off a 7b+ something that's not happened for quite some time! I think the last few weeks plus the drive has taken a bit more out of me than I think.
Another day on followed by a rest day and it all starts to come together feeling like I can climb recover on good holds and get stuff done. Having been hear a week I think it's time to move on try out new crags and get projects done so heading west before turning south yet again !
IMG_2065.JPG

Week one

2010-08-17T01:58:00.000-07:00

Week one
With a nice but quite long drive down thru France we arrived at Ceuse, with camp set and a few beers looking at the crag from the safety of the campsite we got t planning the climbing the following day.
Walking up the hill the next day in the full sun was quite fun but ok at a slow pace, climbing on the other hand although the best ever was quite hard work falling off a 7b+ something that's not happened for quite some time! I think the last few weeks plus the drive has taken a bit more out of me than I think.
Another day on followed by a rest day and it all starts to come together feeling like I can climb recover on good holds and get stuff done. Having been hear a week I think it's time to move on try out new crags and get projects done so heading west before turning south yet again !

The List

2010-08-06T10:17:00.000-07:00

Adrenachrome, Lulworth 8a
Pump up the beast, lulworth 8a
Windowchrome, Lulworth 8a+
Christine, long quarry point 8a
Cutlass, Berry head 8a+
Balance of Power, Portland 8a
San simeon, pembroke 8a
The Wizard, pembroke 8a
Jaws, pembroke 8a/7c+
heal hook look, north wales 8a

This is I think the list of 8a and above DWS's in the uk, up until recently having done a few of them I thought would it be possible to get them all done?
So the mission started but where to start, I'd done three of the ten one being a harder version of Adrenachrome also on the list, But a strong team and fair weather saw me headed to pembroke,a good as place to start as any!
So jaws it was to be then and it was in the best condition I'd ever seen it, I thought I'd chalk it up from a rope then have at. Two goes later standing on the top of the route thinking well there's four of the ten done I might just manage to do this challenge I set myself, so off to bed to mull over the day and hope for good weather and the wizard.
Well rain the next day put pay to the wizard so with a quick weather check Devon and Chistine was calling, so five hours later and a small sleep we went to long quarry point.
I'd tried the line before ground up so keeping with theme Bob and me took it in turns to have a play, a few splashdowns later I got to thinking that some chalk on the holds might help so down I went with brush and chalk to have a look! Well from a rope it made no sense as the roof is so 3D, so I slapped some chalk on things that might be holds and came back out to continue playing from the bottom up. So again with many splashdowns but making progress each time I finally made the crux slap followed but a flick to a jug and glory.

The Azores movie

2010-07-18T15:12:00.001-07:00

http://vimeo.com/13281696
Sent from my iPad

New times ahead

2010-07-15T13:13:00.000-07:00

Well it seams that I'm not very good at keeping things up to date so iv come up with a plan, I'm going to do a monthly update this gives me a nice deadline with witch to keep things moving along.
Im going to start as from now so I'll give you a brief overview of what iv been up to up to this date in time, since I last posted iv been to the Azores looking for new DWS ( I'll post a vid) as always been working a bit but had a week off chill last week and headed to pembroke for a bit of solo fun, I got on Jaws an 8a first put up by Timmy Emmett iv wanted to do this route for so long and it was supper cool to finally get it done. From hear a day of rain saw us headed south for a nother route that's been on the list for I wile Christine down at long quarry point at Ansteys in Devon,

Spain and Skymasters

2010-03-30T05:58:00.000-07:00

Well with the send of Tuppance in the bag i packed my bags and headed to spain to get some Spanish sun! Dave and myself landed in sunny Mercia and drove up to the Blanca and wildside getting there in the dark finding a dos spot we parked up and got to making dinner and bedding down for the night thinking that the stars re out lets try out my new sleeping bag under said stars, well a few hours later and putting the tent up in the middle of the night in the rain things were not looking good!
So a lazy morn and climbing in the rain on a damp and cold wildside we decided to head back south chorro hear we come. five hours of driving later and again finding a dos spot on the top of a mountain and cooking dinner in the dark we settled down to sleep and not learning from the first night i slept out under the stars, dave not risking it and opting for the tent.A dry night saw us having coffee the next morn with the best view but shortly after we found the nice looking but very very wet crag of loca.
this pattern followed for the next few days moving around finding some nice crags but climbing the dry rock ie stuff in the sun was trashing our skin as was to hot and out of the sun it was wet.
we found ourselves passing thru chorro stopping to do afew routes then going up to Displomlandia and finding a route i try'd a few years ago but failed on so again went looking for a nice dos spot and found it in the form of an Olive grove, we bedded down hear fingers crossed for good red pointing the next day. So Mar de Ortigas 8a i went up working the moves and warming up all good so far, i came down jumped around a bit to stay warmed up and ten miutes later tyed on to have a go, a further five minutes later i was at the top thinking why dident i do that last time its not so bad! so coming down i thought why not try the 8a+ to the right iv not done two 8's in a day before so moved the draws over and started working the moves on that. So two redpoints later and first falling off a big move near the top and the last move with arms feeling spent i was close to calling it a day when dave said just try one more time so a coffee in town and a nice rest saw me not only sending it but in a fine style.

So back home a few days work first route setting in dublin then building a climbing wall closer to home, also a few comps first CWIF at the climbing works a wicked boulder comp, and then Skymasters at the outdoors show at the NEC.
now getting the van ready for another trip down to spain to get amongest the Spanish boulders of Allbracin happy days...

Tuppance

2010-03-11T03:10:00.001-08:00

Well at last The seal has been broken I have reached the 8b garade in
theform of climbing Tuppance at Ansteys cove Devon. A route that gets
8a+ in the guide but knowbody says it is it is much harder ie 8b
This route marks a bigstep up in my climbing as is a route iv worked
over along perord of time, I first got on this route it must of been
five or more years ago with rob Sutton and on that first try I did all
but one of the moves ( the crux ).
So from hear I'd go down once in a wile and have a look at said move
but alas no luck, the move consists of a deep drop knee to a crimp for
me holding this crimp comming out of the drop knee and moving the
right hand is the hardest part, I got on the route late last year and
on that day I did the move only once mind you but this was enuf to let
me know I could do the route! So with this In mind I set to training
on my weekness in climbing.... crimps
This all came together in march with almost sending it on a Monday
then comming back on wensday and climbing it making a very happy gav
now where to go from hear will have to look around find a new
project ! .....

E-mailing you from my phone because this is the 21st centuary after
all...

comps and climbing

2010-03-09T07:06:00.000-08:00

so since my last update i'v had some time off that rubbish work thing do do some climbing, well that was the plan when going to font! not the best thing to happen the day before we turned up was a big dummping of snow. so a nice load of picturesque walks looking at bocks that were unclimbable saw us driving home boots unpacked and the only use for our bouldermats was as a nice sledge.
I also had a bit of a trip to the london first building a big volume then setting for the last round for the King of the mez at the castle, the comp went well with a nice split in the men and women thenks to mr j partride turning up to show all how its done.

March started well with aweek of training down in the shed on portland and sportclimbing for the first time this year on the west coast fine days had by all, March is also the month for comps getting off to a fine start with the last round o fthe leage at the Climbing Academy in bristol, with around win and comming joint first in the final head to head the leage was in the bag.
Comps now on the cards are the cwif at the climbing works and skymasters at the outdoor show at the NEC brum. So what to till then i think a short trip to spain should fill the gap nicely ill keep you posted on how it go's !!

2010-02-03T11:48:00.000-08:00

well what a start to the year as per norm not much climbing done but have been deep in the land of Wall building this time in Stoke on trent for Awesome walls. A big boulder wall with easy climbing downstairs and not so easy climbing up stairs!

Three weeks later and all done saw the best weekend of the year so far with the sun out Mike Langley and me in the peak, a touch of Stanage to get our eyes in on sat then over to burbage with a flash of the nose and a resend of westside story after the pebble came off, Then we went over to The Terrace for a quick send not a bad weekend and a good starting point befor going to Font next week!

New Year

2010-01-04T03:38:00.000-08:00

Well into the new year and time to start anew! it all went a bit wrong with the blog at the end of the last so now ill start afresh.
Well last year was bizy times with getting back from spain was running around all over putting up Christmas dec's and building climbing walls, So not much climbing to report as of such.

surrey wall

in the far north

Xmas saw a turn in form with a little climbing after an aborted trip to font dew to weather we went down to Devon and i had a play on tupance at Ansteys cove a very classic route that feels well like a send is on the cards!

new year night at Swanage

Stoping with bez

Work was calling again so back in the van and heading to London we stopped off on Portland for new year and a day bouldering at the Cuttings on Portland had me feeling on top form with a growing list of projects!

spain road tripping from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.

old man

2009-10-06T05:40:00.000-07:00

Well it happened im now 30! but worse than that i'm also back from spain and a month traveling around with Lisa and other friends. starting off with a somewhat choppy ferry crossing and a two day drive down to the Costa Blaca, We arived at the Orange House ready for a weeks Deep water soloing.

Deep Water Solo Feastival Spain sept 09 from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.

From the hot and sunny south coast we traveled up hill to the famed bouldering spot Albarracin, with good temps and wkd climbing we set of to test our skills and power on the blocks, i had with me a pair of speedsters from sportiva and was trying these out on the sandstone as well, i found out to my cost that wile very good in the steep for pulling not so good at edges.

So back in the van and headed north yet again we ended up at a little known crag just west of mont grony, With lisa flashing a 6a on toprope then pulling the rope and leading it all was set for a good few days i then onsighted a 7c up the steep and long wall cheacking my arms are up for the up and coming routes in Roddelar.

San Sim

2009-09-01T13:02:00.000-07:00

Well it comes to pass that after my last try and the weather set in it looked like a no go For San Simeon before i went to spain, But driving back to bristol to drop Tim off to go to a wedding the power of the Iphone shone through saying that a window of weather was coming, So fuled with a shower and food i drove back to the westest of Wales. Geting to the bosh head for last orders i found myself a team of lifegaurds/ spotters and camera crew ready for the seven oclock start.
So comes the morning, Not knowing when the wall comes into the sun had me playing at high tide in the shade on rather wet rock! The top was in the sun and pream ready for the move but the bottom and more improtant the only sloping hold on the route was far from dry. So warmed up it was a race of sun v tide witch was on the way out!!.
At last the resting rail and the bad grip came in to sun so with the tide falling and only one go at doing the route before it became to shallow off i went. The first 25ft went easily enuf seeing me at the rail ready for the next 40ish ft of harder climbing, After having a shake and clearing my head off i went, All going well and getting to the move where i fell only a few days ago i took a breath moved slow and deadpointed to the hold all i had to do then was to stay calm and not pull one of the loose holds off the top!
Job done only took me two years and five days to get the weather right and do this route making it one of my longest pojects i'v done to date.

San Simeon from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.

So now its time to pack the van and head to Spain, First stop the orange house for the deep water solo fest held there sponsored by La Sportiva.
Not sure what to do after that apart from climb and try and do a 8b before I'm 30! will keep you posted..

Pembroke

2009-08-19T08:47:00.001-07:00

Well hear I am again hoping that the sun
mixes with tide and rock so I can get my project done, after having a play last week only to find out that it started to seep when it went in the shade at high tide thus making it a no go.
One week on looking out the window at a rather damp and windy day! yesterday was better a bit of sun in the afternoon making it bon and climbable, With a film crew on site (stolen from Tim) ready to catch the climbing it was all going well till after the first crux and the big move to the crimp apon high, finger tips over the grip and slipping off to plunge the 55ft into the sea.
Time's running out for me this Year i'v only a few days left before me and Lisa are heading to spain for a month of climbing First down in the blanca for a deep water solo fest at the orange house them up to the mountains of the north to getfit and live the dream....

2009-07-30T09:19:00.000-07:00

Well things seam to be coming together after a trip down to Ansteys cove in Devon a sweet sport climbing spot on the south coast, on a route called Tupance a route i first tried it must be three or four years ago where I made it must be said good progress on that day so long ago only not doing one move on my working sesh.
Well three years on iv done the move! With it I think I can climb the route I might have to spend some time playing on it but it will be done.
wile down in the west I headed to Dartmoor for a spot of van camping followed by an early wake up call coming from a Dartmoor pony popping his head in the open door to say hello I called him Tom!

From my early start I went up to Hound tor to do a bit of soloing before my coaching clients turned up for there days climbing on the perfect granit of the moor in the wind and sun, with a debrief over a pint at the Rugglestone in Wideacome in the moor. Back on the road it’s off to Portland to meet up with Lisa for her first climbing day outside in seven weeks! With her call on climbing venues she had us headed to Blacknor north and a redpoint she looked at all those weeks ago. Working the moves on toprope a few times to get her eye back in she pulls on for the lead.
Mean wile mike and myself on another long term project of mine Freaky Ralph a route witch starts with a nice 7a+ and finishes with a slaby 7a with a spicy V7 splitting the two, a new set of numbers witch include a slap to a poorer hold then a flick to the slide pull proper making the crux a different story the game was on, so two go’s down and finding out that I do need to move my foot before the slap I just had to step up one more time and sure enough after watching Mike fall off the slab sent it on my next run.

Camping

2009-07-15T08:40:00.000-07:00

Well not a bad camping spot on my working road tour, I came across this spot(Wardour Castle) when driving towards Gillingham Dorset a nice castle in the dorset hills i can recommend popping in if your in the area! best to do early morning before they open.

Time

2009-05-14T08:28:00.000-07:00

Well times a funny thing and she run's on apace and i see that its been awhile since i last tapped away!
Well whats been going on in this life of mine? climbing wise on returning from spain had me headed to the skymasters comp with fitness up all was set for a good few days fun, climbing and drinking. With that done and Easter around the bend looking at forecasts seemed little help with the planning so Lisa and me booked a ferry for france and Font, thinking that sat in the forest drinking coffee/chocolate in the rain was not the worst way to spend a few days, Who could of guessed that the sun would come out and make it lisa's best Font trip to date!
With the weather good on the south coast climbing on portland seemed a good bet so a few weeks working and climbing evenings brings us to now where i find myself again packing for Spain bring on the steep juggy limestone.
a picy of me in Newport standing around!

Spain again

2009-03-27T04:35:00.000-07:00

Well just back from spain again this time climbing with the French man Yann (the project maker!) with a special appearance from me bird Lisa.
On this trip i had a few goals 1= get fit/strong for sky masters 2= do a few 8a's 3= try and onsight one!
twelve days of climbing lay befor me so my thinking was little and often so only a few routes a day for me, Day one saw us at Forada sleepy but keen getting our eye's in doing a few climbs up to 7b+ then over to the house to settle in and meet up with the others.
El Bov was next on the list and redpointing the super steep Arcadia 7c after dropping the last move first go! Then followed a pair of days falling off flashing and onsighting 8's at Wildside and L'ocaive, not god falling off things but starting to build fitness up, More redpointing needed so back to Wildside to do Ergometia 8a with Yann's hands of rest near top helps! followed by a rest day only a 7b+ done this day.
The arrival of Leah Crane climbing in the sun saw us at Echo vally and again an almost flash of Shelter 8a sent 2point.
As climbing in the sun is overrated we went back to the dark side and i got back on Dimension Diamante 8a+, i was on this last time out but got shut down on the crux but this time pissed it pointng it second go.
More rest days followed only trying 7c+'s and climbing up to 7b's, then we went to the short crag of Murla 15 meters and i jumped my way up LaChaqueta Hidraulica 8a.
Then on to our last day what a perfect trip fitness up, four 8's in the bag climbing and chilling in sunny spain with friends life can't get much better?
With a late flight we went to Cabezon a long crag 40+ meters and is near the airport so good as can climb for longer, warming up on the best 6b+ and 6c+ anywhere i can think of, looking up at Columneta an 8a so long i couldn't see the top the only two bits of info i had on the route were gaz fell off it not a good thing to know he don't fall much and a small tufa pinch for your right hand i set off just seeing how far i could get.
Well finding a knee bar after the steep start 25 meters up and not falling off was a nice place to be, after resting a bit set of up the still steep but not quite so steep top, it went like this steady climbing hard move more steady climbing to side pulls on bad feet, pulling with all i had i found the small tufa with my left hand? pushed on past it to bad crimps and a jug i had made it this far im 38 metres up the route onsight hanging on a resting jug! i can see the chain now only one bolt higher up but the only problem is i can't see any holds! getting my feet up and reaching up finds me at a two finger pocket trusting this is the way to go i pull up again and found another pocket i still can't see any holds and seeing as this method has worked twice now i try it again and again and again and there it is the chain all i need to do is get my finger out of the pocket it seams stuck in and clip! Panic setts in as finger is quite stuck but no a bit of a hip wiggle sees it free and clip and relax 8a onsight in the bag whoop whoop.

Spain

2009-02-27T07:20:00.000-08:00

Well just back from the Blanca with a nice stay at the Orange House with Gaz P, Shauna C and charlie E.

The one overriding feeling is that i need to get fitter, not just a bit fitter tho i need large amount of fitness i can hang on for a point or two but as for onsighting its just another game.

Saying that though not a bad trip considering that be for going out the years tally of routes was at a hedonistic tally of about 10 climbs on the rock stuff! The first day was just a case of doing a few easy routes in the sun as id not slept much and was recovering from setting at the Academy the day be for, Then the climbing started proper getting out of the sun and into the shade of caves and the dark of north, With Crags the likes of Wildside, El Bov and Forada.
the ascent of the week has to go to Shauna on climbing her first 8a in the shape of Watermark at Wildside sella working the climb with Gaz's sequence of putting your thumb in a whole on crux move we went for our first redpoint trys, i managed to pull though the crux and on up past the easier climbing to the chains bricking it on the easy ground all the way hoping i wouldn't mess it up. Shauna tho after getting her thumb in on the action missed her foot sequence and peeled off the crux.
So on to day two of redpoint land she worked up the route sorting the numbers and getting warm, so second point! getting past the crux surely its in the bag but no dam footwork. So round three and guess what yep that's right feet again not such a problem on round four with a picture perfect ascent, a sweet effort as 7c was her hardest climb up to this, i'd recommend not sitting out on those dancing lessons from now on sort out dem feet.

With a few more days of trip left i made short work on another 8a/8a+ at Forada and finished up climbing a long standing project for me a 7b+ at Wildside i was working ten years ago!

Out of the box

2009-02-11T14:24:00.000-08:00

Well the day started well waking up in Clifton Bristol overlooking the bridge, After a big Bowl of porridge on to the climbing Academy for a spot of coaching for the uni climbing team and coffee on tap.
Well with the weather shinning and work Finished the outdoors was calling and a few hours later i found myself on Dartmoor! After getting a bit stuck getting into the car park at bonehill i pulled on my new climbing shoes the La Sportiva miura VS's, i can safely say that they performed beyond compare on the small granite crystals making the climbs of my usual circuit a path, not so good on the snow but cant have every thing!

Snow+Sun on the Moor from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.

Comps

2009-01-26T22:00:00.000-08:00

TCA or in longer speak the climbing academy, Bristol’s new boulder wall held its opening party last weekend, kicking off at high noon with the sun showing an unusual appearance the Bristol climbing masses made a beeline inside to the wall?
With 30 problems and three hours to get them done it was set to be a trying day out for all, All started well with the climbers spreading out to explore the many parts of the wall to find the easier probs to get involved in warming up.
Three hours later with a nicely split field and most but not quite all the lines climbed it was time for the final! Coming out first for the girls was jo purslow getting on the arm sapping 28 move monster, Following jo was Hazel Findlay then charlie Kelly out on the prob/route with Hammy coming in first just four moves from the last grip, nice one ham.
Next up the boys with Andy, Jak and yours truly in the final.
I can’t say what went on with the other two, as I was last out so unable to watch but im told that the steep long route took its toll on already battered arms!
So on to my turn, I had already looked at the route and had a sequence in my head but looking at the holds didn’t make me ready for was how steep the wall is! So knowing I had limited climbing time and not knowing how far the boys had got I climbed as fast and as smoothly as I could hoping I had enough left in the tank, till all of a sudden the watching crowds roared letting me know that I had done enough so now It was all for glory can I make the top? Well no I fell off the next move but I had won the first climbing academy boulder comp.
Thanks go’s put to all that made the day possible from wall staff /setters but most of all Rich and Paul.

comp TCA from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.

Training

2009-01-21T08:22:00.000-08:00

Well not meaning much to many but longy has been toiling at his craft again and stripped and reset the Shed on Portland as very few people know of the Shed let me explain, A small group of Portland climbers with Andy at the helm set up a climbing wall for the locals, mainly all circuits consisting of the 60/70 move problem. Andy has set two new ones a red easy (7b outside) and a Yellow nails one (8a upwards?) crossing the new bit of wall we added late last year. Wile I can do the red the yellow is some what trickier I got half way round on my first go but could only do the remaining 35 moves in seven move sections, the last of witch is probably a V6 boulder in its own right.
So now we have a few new challenges I need a trip to get fit for! I know that means nothing to most but it keeps me happy.
Spain I think is calling!

2009-01-13T10:58:00.000-08:00

festive times

2009-01-08T08:52:00.001-08:00

Well its safe to say that i'v still got reason to travel to Fontaiebleau! with a failed attempt on my my proj came to the rather striking thought that one might have to train to get up hard climbs.

So with this on my mind i stepped back from the game of hard and just entertained self on pottering around the Forrest and did a few circuits with Lisa hot on my trail expanding her knowledge of cold equals sticky.

So to Christmas din dins not being the ones to miss out on a slice of bird and having no cooker in the van we went with fire roasting?

In hear someplace is a Turkey crown roast spuds and all trimmings for our forest feast yummy.

Just as we were finding our flow and the weather turned even more sunny i had to come home for a few days so with a mad dash round Paris we headed for the ferry, Next stop the Peaks for a frosty new year.

We climbed at stanage on new years day just doing the rounds on a perfect winters day in tut north. A splendid way to start the year, With a little play on burbage north the next day and a quick send of Submergence 7c i think its going to be a good year.

Crimbo

2008-12-23T02:20:00.000-08:00

Well its that time of year again, Watch as all the lights fill the sky so santa can find his way in his bizy night to fill the stockings of the world.

Or as i like to look at it time to fill the van with gas and get the hell out of doge, Fontaiebleau is the place for me and me bird, I have a bit of unfinished business in the shape of 7c called Eclipse.

With the weather looking Bon i'll report back hear with tails of great things! have a fantastic Crimbo every body! ill catch you in the new year Gav

Bishop

2008-12-16T15:30:00.000-08:00

A brief montage of my recent trip to Bishop, A trip with Bob Hickish, Tash Otly and Lisa Farris

Bishop is one of my favorite bouldering spots that iv been to, hot cold and always sunny all on the same day!

Since getting back it's been all go, work out side of climbing but also setting at the climbing academy in Bristol. A new wall much needed in the south an excellent job well done, At last i have a wall i can go to get my boulder game on.

Welcome

2008-12-09T12:42:00.000-08:00

Up and running with one of these Blog things, I will try and keep you up to date with what's going on in and around my world.

Am new with this whole bloging so keep with me and i'll hopefully entertain you if not at least you can point and make fun of me!

thanks Gavin